Headlamp Modifications

There are any number of Go-faster accessories on the market, some good, some Ok. and some just crap, but I've always believed the only way to be quick and safe at night is to be able to see where you are going. So to follow this belief, if you have ridden an early 31/2, you have got to change the headlamp.

In my case as you will have seen if you have read any of the mods on my site, It has gone through a number of changes to get from the original to the current headlamp. The original shell and lens are an odd size compared to modern (and not so modern) sizes. The original shell is good quality (CEV) with the strange idea of connectors on the outside of the shell that via an insulated block pass through the shell to more connectors inside the shell to short leads and more connectors to actually supply the bulb-a pathetic 35 watt unit. Also there is another junction box just below the headstock, so within about 12 inches of cable there are 5 unnecessary connectors. Is it any wonder Italian electrics get a bad name, this set up is fine when new in a nice and warm Mediterranean country but throw in 25 years and wet weather and by the time all these connections have aged and you probably won't even get 35 watts out of the bulb.

So my original Idea was to take as many of these connections out of the system as possible. I started by fitting two relays(electrical switches) which were controlled by the original wires leading to the headlamp shell connectors, so that when the original current was switched on it turned either of the relays on depending whether it was high or low beam. The principal of the relays is that a small current such as the original supply can switch on a much higher current without causing damage by overheating the wires or arcing the switches of the original wiring. Then two thicker cables were run directly from the battery to the relays and then to the headlamp and two thicker short leads were fitted to replace the originals inside the headlamp. So now when the headlamp is switched on, the original wiring just operates the relays which in turn operate the new thicker wiring system to light the headlamp. This is more electrically efficient, if you compare it to water its easier to push a volume of water through a bigger hose than a small one, and also a bigger hose will let more water through it than a smaller one for the same pressure. The relays and their fuses were mounted on a plate behind the left-hand side panel. Each relay is fused independently so that if one fails the other beam will still work, again an improvement over the original. This system improved things but was still pathetic due to the output of the original bulb.

So I tried to find a bulb with a better output that would fit the original light unit but was unable to source one anywhere. I then found that a Honda light unit could be persuaded to fit the original shell. By using one from a 400 Superdream I now had a lens that would take a modern std fitting H4 bulb, but be careful as some of the 250 Superdreams use a lens unit for a bulb of 35 watt output which is no improvement. This was a major improvement in light output but the focus of this light unit was not great and didn't give a very good throw of light. About this time I acquired a Cibie Z-beam light unit, in my opinion the best of the units available for std round headlamps, these were used as replacement units for rally cars when they still had round lights including works teams. There used to be a conversion kit for Morini size shells as I had one in an earlier bike, but they are no longer made and have not been for a good while, if you can find an old stock one somewhere they are great. The std sizes now are 51/4” and 7” neither of which fit the std shell. So when I found a 7” unit cheap I thought I would see if it would fit the shell I was using, no such luck about ½” too big . I ordered a 7” shell from one off the aftermarket bits suppliers but was disappointed that when it arrived my 7”Cibie would not fit!! On checking I discovered the only shells that this unit would fit seemed to be old British ones which were ridiculous money and odd shapes. So when I saw an ad in the club mag for a complete Suzuki Bandit headlamp I snapped it up, as when I measured it, it was a genuine 7” lens unit. I took it home opened it up to fit my Cibie to find it had a different lens mounting system and I could still not fit the Cibie Doh!!

Never mind I decided to fit the Bandit unit complete, after making some new plates to fit the original headlamp brackets as the new unit is over an inch wider than the original, it was on. The output was as good as the Superdream one but much better focused and night riding became faster and safer. To try and improve things even more I decided to try a bulb with a greater output than the std 60/55 watt H4 bulb. These can be bought up to about 130 watt max but the current draw is huge and the battery would go flat while riding after about 20 mins with a 120/90 bulb that I had left over from a previous car. So next I tried a Phillips bulb which draws the same current as a std one but produces about 30% more output, this worked well being noticeably brighter and not flattening the battery. It's easy to tell when the battery gets low, the indicators stop working!

So at the moment my bike has a revised wiring system, Suzuki Bandit headlamp and an uprated bulb all in the effort to improve night time use. But one day I will find a headlamp that the Cibie fits and with the Phillips bulb will hopefully have the ultimate Morini headlamp- Unless anyone knows Different!